Dermaplaning very few people have it, but most people dream of it: flawless skin. A social media trend is now supposed to help. By shaving your face. What dermaplaning can really do – and what it can’t.
Whether it’s smooth legs or hairless armpits: it’s not new that women repeatedly resort to blades to get rid of annoying hair. According to a current skin care trend, the face should now be freed from as many hairs as possible.
Dermaplaning is the name of the phenomenon that is making the rounds on social media platforms like Tiktok. under the hashtag #DermaplaningThere are currently 2.8 million posts on Instagram alone . The majority of young women remove the fine hairs on their forehead, cheeks, chin and nose using a razor or scalpel. Many people use white dry shampoo when shaving so that even the smallest hairs are visible. Some cosmetic studios also offer Dermaplaningas a facial treatment. A fact check shows what facial shaving can actually do.
What is dermaplaning really good for the skin?
Claim
Dermaplaning has dermatologically proven benefits, ensures smooth, clear skin and makes care products work better.
Evaluation
Only partially true. Experts advise against it.
Facts
According to dermatologist Yael Adler, Dermaplaning is “not a scientifically based or recommended method”. If you slide a scalpel or razor over your face, not only downy hairs are removed, but also dead scales and thus the top layer of the skin barrier. This makes the face appear smoother, explains Adler in an interview with the Press Agency (dpa).
“However, the skin barrier is something that we need, that we actually want to keep stable, that we don’t want to thin out,” says the dermatologist. The natural barrier protects against external influences and supplies it with fat and moisture. If the barrier is weakened, “irritation, penetration of allergens or pathogens and loss of moisture” can occur.
Robust skin can usually handle such a shave well, says dermatologist Ulrich Ohnemus in an interview with the dpa. In such cases, Dermaplaning can have a beautifying effect. “After the hairs are removed, the skin is smoother and therefore the light reflects better, which can ultimately lead to more radiant skin.”
For small, harmless blackheads, shaving can sometimes act like a peeling. “This allows the sebum to empty more easily, and there may be fewer blackheads or small pimples.” However, “with sensitive skin and people who don’t use it correctly,” there is a risk of injury and inflammation.
If you have skin diseases, using a razor is not a good idea, according to Ohnemus and Adler. “You shouldn’t do this if you have acne because you could shave the pimples and make the inflammation worse. This increases the risk of scarring and infection. Pus bacteria, herpes and wart viruses can be spread,” explains Adler. “If you have problem skin, I would advise against the treatment,” says Ohnemus.
Smooth skin, but no quick regeneration
Cosmetic influencers also promise that facial shaving stimulates skin regeneration and cells renew themselves quickly. As Adler explains, removing the hairs does not have this effect. “If you remove the dead stratum corneum at the top, the cells of the living layer don’t notice at all that this has happened up there, and therefore there is no influence on the regeneration of the skin.” The hair roots are also not affected, “if the hair is outside dead horn thread is cut. Then they won’t grow back any faster.”
The regeneration time of the epidermis, during which the cells migrate from the basal cell layer to the upper stratum corneum, is around four to six weeks, explains Ohnemus. If you remove the upper stratum corneum, the process “is not necessarily accelerated, but you have detached the upper stratum corneum, which leads to a certain level of smoothing.”
Care products have a stronger effect
Adler and Ohnemus agree that care products could work better after a shave. “If you thin out the upper layer of skin, it is actually the case that active ingredients from care products come closer to the deeper cell layers of the epidermis,” says Adler. The “penetration of certain substances is accelerated by damage to the barrier function,” explains Ohnemus.
However, there is a risk that care products could cause irritation. Especially if there are already intolerances or the face is dry or sensitive. “These substances can suddenly reach the immune cells in the epidermis and sensitize them. These cells then go to the lymph node stations and activate the immune system.” Contact allergies sometimes develop with redness, inflammation, pimples, blisters and itching.
Beware of skin care trends
Using dry shampoo to shave is often part of Dermaplaning. However, that doesn’t make sense – on the contrary, says Adler. “There is no medical benefit to using dry shampoo other than it looks cool.” The hair product “binds oil and dries out, contains silicones, preservatives, solvents, alcohol and allergens and sometimes carcinogenic fragrances,” explains doctor. Dry shampoo is “definitely too aggressive for delicate facial skin and can even clog the pores.”
The dermatologist is generally skeptical about trends like Dermaplaning. “Many social media trends are copied in the hope that they will achieve something. You use a lot of products, you use procedures, you spend money and if you’re lucky, no damage is done.” However, with a bit of bad luck, you get “a contact allergy, an inflammation or an irritation and you’ve lost money.”
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